Sunday 19 February 2012

Early 20th Century Fashion

Hello everyone,

I hope you all had a lovely weekend! Time for the third and final costume history post. Today we're dealing with early 20th century fashion, a period when dresses became narrower and the new columnar silhouette was introduced. The narrow waist given by the S-shaped corset was accentuated by a sash or belt and necklines were supported by very high boned collars. The blouses were full in front and the skirts brushed the floor and most of the times had a train.

This period is my favourite in terms of fashion because I think the dresses looked so sophisticated and elegant, the materials were so luxurious while being so light and exquisite in the same time and the silhouettes were simply amazing. Just look at the pictures and you'll understand what I'm talking about :)

I would like to start with my two favourite dresses, one for the afternoon and one for the evening. I've never seen something so beautiful in terms of dresses. I'm fascinated by them (by each and every one of them)!


French afternoon dress (1900-1903) by Jacques Doucet made of silk, linen and rhinestones

Description: "The House of Doucet was known for its luxurious offerings, which were worn and coveted by royalty, members of the elite society in both Europe and America, and actresses of the stage.This is an elegant afternoon dress that would be suitable for afternoon events, such as the races and other promenade activities. The dress is an excellent example of Doucet's penchant for lingerie-like garments, which is represented by the delicate ruffles and rose printed chiffon. The color combination of blues accented with turquoise is a favorite of the designer."



 Evening dress(1902) by House of Worth made of silk, rhinestones and metal

Official description: "This is a very beautiful example of a Belle Époque dress emphasizing the aesthetic for pastel colors and light materials. The cutout work of the chiné applied to the lace is an outstanding feature which adds liveliness to the flowers, as if they were growing. Chiné is expensive to make as the pattern is printed on the warp before the weft is woven in, thus producing the blurred effect, reminiscent of a Claude Monet (1840-1926) painting."

Evening dress (1914) by Callot Soeurs made of silk, metal and rhinestones

Description: "This gown from 1914 exemplifies the fashion aesthetic of the time, in which multiple layers and textures of fabric were intended to give the appearance of an unstructured and spontaneous design. The use of the selvedge edge at the front of the dress, for example, was an intentional technique used by couturiers of the period to express the idea that fabric was wrapped and draped with minimal tailoring."

American ball gown (1910) by Mrs. Osborn Company made of silk

Met's description: "The over-the-top expression of opulence seen in this ball gown worn by a prominent member of the Astor family is a testament to the degree of ostentation required at certain events in order to stand out from the crowd. The dense sequin and bead embroidery on the gown would have created a beautiful shimmering effect."


French evening dress (1909-11) made of silk and rhinestones

Description: "This dress is a tour de force of beadwork embroidery, indicative of French couture craftsmanship. The juxtaposition of three-dimensional and trompe l'oeil tassels is stylish and witty, and highlights the level of planning and care taken in the design of couture garments."


American dress (1902-1903) made of silk



French ball gown (1900-1903) made of silk



Ball gown (1900-1905) by House of Worth made of silk, cotton and metallic thread


 American evening dress (1911-13) made of silk


 American ball gown (1908) made of cotton, linen and silk 


 Afternoon dress (1908-10) made of cotton and silk

Description: "Irish crochet lace was very popular in the Belle Époque not only for trim but also for full garments such as this one. Its three-dimensionality gives a particularly interesting textural effect. This example employs not only three-dimensional floral motifs but actual pendant flowers that move with the wearer."

Evening dresses (1911-15) by Jeanne Hallée made of silk and glass


Evening dress (1908-10) by Mrs. Dunstan made of silk and pearls

Description: "This dress is of particular interest, as it bears the label of a New York dressmaker, Mrs. Dunstan. However, the complex construction and the variety of fabrics used are very consistent with French-made garments and could possibly attribute this dress to the famous French couturier Jacques Doucet. A rarity, this dress is in mint condition and marks the period of transition when mainstream fashion was moving from the monobosom shape to the more upright empire line."

Afternoon dress (1906-08) by House of Paquin, made of silk

The End

I really hope you enjoyed these few posts as much as I enjoyed writing them! Now tell me...which one was your favourite? :)

Take care x



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